Tanzania Days 3,4&5: A Few Days in Dar

The last three days have passed by in a whirlwind of activity--we've been trying to accomplish three different objectives at the same time! On the one hand, this is orientation. Our leaders, Justin and Bw. Paulo, have worked hard to explain the nuances of the program to us and help us feel initially comfortable here. To that end, we have had sessions on topics ranging from health & safety to the village intensive portion of the program. In addition, Bw. Paulo has been giving us basic Survival Swahili lessons. Although we will enter into intensive Swahili lessons once we're settled in Iringa, Bw. Paulo gave us the tools to communicate basically in Tanzania. Although I still think my Swahili skills are sub-par, they are improving much faster than if I was learning in a classroom at home. There is nothing like feeling deeply uncomfortable about your inability to explain yourself to others as a motivator to learn a language. I find it frustrating that I cannot even carry out a basic conversation in Swahili (I'm not far off, I think...but I'm not there yet!). Hopefully by the time I begin my home-stay in rural Tanzania (where no one will speak English!), I will be in a position to communicate effectively in Swahili!

Aside from our classroom orientation to Tanzania, Justin and Paulo have also taken us out into the city to show us Dar Es Salaam (another objective) and to get us equipped for the semester (the final objective). Needless to say, we have been very busy! Now, on to the adventures of the last three days...

A Street in Dar

Day 3, Monday, started rather slowly. Although I had managed to avoid it the day before, jet-lag came back with a vengeance on Monday. When I get up here (7 am) is when I am usually going to bed back in the US (12am). The mornings are the most challenging part of the day, since it is night in the US. Monday was no exception. After a brief Swahili lesson in the morning, it was time to go out and see some of Dar Es Salaam! Our bus was rather jolly--they are all ex-Japanese/South Korean buses. So are most of the vehicles in Tanzania. Apparently, there is a law in Japan (at least), which requires vehicles over a certain age to be retired or other face hefty fines. Given that these vehicles (which tend to be maybe 10 years old?) can no longer be driven, where do they end up? East Africa. Entire container ships full of used cars arrive in Tanzania and are gobbled up by the growing population. As a result, there are virtually no American or European cars here (a few Mercedes, but those seem to be reserved for the very wealthy).

Once we made it on the bus, we finally had a chance to experience the famous (or perhaps infamous?) Dar traffic. I don't think I will ever be able to drive confidently in Tanzania--I would be too frightened. Cars literally go everywhere--and often with razor-thin margins. I cannot count the number of close calls our bus alone had. Driving here really must require nerves of steel. After safely navigating the reams of traffic, we arrived at our destination: Mlimani City Mall. Here, we got our passport photos taken for our residence permits, grabbed any supplies we needed, and set up our phones with a Tanzanian SIM. It was an interesting experience to wander through a mall that looks very similar to an American one--certainly, it felt like I was back in the US (for a brief moment). That feeling was quickly squashed when I was interrogated (well, not quite...but it felt like it) by a security guard. After checking out at a discount shop, I was quickly approached by a guard who demanded to know exactly what was in my bag. After examining each item and cross-referencing it with my receipt, he sent me on my way. Although some stores in the US do this, they are not nearly as diligent or forceful about it.

After a brief lunch, it was time to set up our SIM cards. This time, as I attempted to set up and purchase my SIM card and bundle, I had quite an easy experience. I had a very friendly sales person who glided me through the process and made sure that my card/bundle were properly set up. I though the price of 24,000 Tsh (about 15 USD) for a month of unlimited internet and a SIM card was quite good. Once I got out of the store, however, I found out that my friends had only paid 20,000 Tsh for the same thing! Although I initially felt ripped off, I realized that this is the way things work in this part of the world--it's a cultural difference.

The Carving Market

We finally escaped the mall about two hours behind schedule and headed to a local carving market. As soon as we emerged from the bus, we were welcomed by the stall owners and strongly encouraged to buy their product. In comparison to the United States, the salesmanship was unbelievable--everyone was really eager to sell you something. It was really interesting to see the carvers at work, as they took a block of wood and made it into a beautiful object. The skill and precision of each craftsman was really impressive.

Following our brief visit to the market, we jumped back on the bus and headed back to the hotel for some R&R. Still struggling with jet-lag, I collapsed in heap not long after dinner.

Tuesday brought new and interesting adventures, as we ventured into the heart of Dar Es Salaam. Taking another bus into the center, we slowly crept through traffic until we reached the city center. On our way, we passed the US Embassy (which looked like a fortified castle) and the British High Commission (which also looked like a fortified castle, but was at least in the center of the city). Our first stop was the National Museum. A beautiful complex located right in the city center, the National Museum showcased the origins of Tanzania, explaining both the biological origins of humanity and the actual history of the country. It was really interesting to learn a bit more about Tanzania and its origins.

The National Museum Complex

Following our visit to the Museum, we meandered over to the City Garden restaurant, a palatial establishment slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. I had the tastiest Carrot and Ginger soup...yum! Tuesday really felt like a bus day--after lunch, we piled back onto the bus in order to head over to the Fish market. Located right on the harbor, the Fish Market was packed--and utterly fascinating. I don't think I've ever seen such a vibrant display of commerce and fresh fish anywhere in the USA. Immediately afterwards, we headed over to the Kariakoo market, a place full of people and merchandise. I think this market helped me to appreciate the gulf between the US and Tanzania. In the US, shopping is mostly conducted through official storefronts--prices are market and there is regulation that safeguards both merchants and consumers. In Tanzania, everything is more fluid--prices are definitely variable and the focus is on the independent stall owner. I don't think one is better than the other, but the visit to the market definitely underscored the wide gulf between the two.

The Dar BRT system (will go in center lanes)

On our way back to the hotel, we got stuck in traffic again. This time, however, I didn't mind as much, because we were on the route of the new BRT line. I've spent the last year studying BRT (Bus Rapid Transit). Dar is an interesting example of the concept and its implementation in the developing world. I was delighted to observe the stations and the system (still under construction) as we drove along the line. Although I had a number of thoughts, I definitely thought it was interesting that the lead contractor on the project was German. It seems that many major construction project are built by foreign firms. Whether that's due to foreign aid restrictions or the lack of skilled talent in Tanzania, it is a shame, since it forces Tanzania to rely on outside help for such a project. Perhaps at some point, they will use (or have) the indigenous capability to built such a system.

A BRT Station (through the window!)

The Beginning of the Sunrise

The Sky was Amazing!

Last, but not least, Wednesday was a much quieter day. Our entire group got up at 6AM (!) to watch the sun rise over the Indian Ocean. I have included the photos below. Although they don't do it justice, they do show some of the incredible view. Following the sunrise, we had a morning filled with Swahili before we jumped into another bus and went to the village museum. This museum showcases the various tribes and cultures of Tanzania and their different styles of village construction. I thought it was really interesting to see the incredible diversity in between the different types of villages and their dwellings. It certainly seemed like each group had adapted to fit their respective culture. We also got to see a Tanzanian dance group, which performed traditional dances for all of the tourists (yes, that means us!).

Some of our group joined in with the dancers!

One of the model village homes

Following a brief lunch, we headed back to the hotel for a quiet afternoon. Tomorrow, we head for Iringa, 9-11 hours away. I will miss the hustle and bustle of Dar, but definitely not the traffic. I am ready for our program to begin in earnest. On Friday, we move into our dorms at the University of Iringa. We have the weekend off, but class starts on Monday. I am both excited and a bit nervous--it will be a new experience to take classes in such a different place!